Small brands, big watches: when micro-watchmaking plays in the big leagues
- whatimisitcontact
- Apr 17
- 5 min read
Updated: Apr 19
Watchmaking is an art. And in this world where the big brands have reigned supreme for decades, a new breath of fresh air is emerging : that of independent micro-brands. So, what makes these little-known brands able to compete with the giants of the sector ? Spoiler : it's amazing !
High-end materials… and sometimes downright futuristic
You might think that a small structure would compromise on quality. It's quite the opposite. Micro-brands stand out precisely for their demanding selection of materials . We're talking here about forged carbon , grade 5 titanium used in aeronautics (more than 60 manufacturing steps over sometimes 180 days of work !), or even sapphire crystal for fully transparent and/or domed cases.
👉 Some pieces use an unconventional crystal, which requires 700 minutes of polishing and has a scrap rate of over 40% - that's how demanding the standards are.
👉 As for the straps, we find premium Italian or American leather , but also FKM rubber , ultra resistant to oil, acid corrosion and atmospheric aging. And with a quick change system without tools , some models like those from TSAR BOMBA or Behrens combine robustness and practicality.
Creative watchmaking that truly dares
Looking to think outside the box? Micro-brands are true laboratories of modern watchmaking . They aren't afraid to experiment and push the boundaries of imagination.
As for the cases , we forget the classic formats :
Skeleton Design at Xeric,
Asymmetrical at Atowak,
Made entirely of sapphire crystal, for total transparency, like at WTIF.
Designers play with form and innovation to offer watches that are unlike any other.
The dials themselves are a true work of art :
Manual guilloché work, true signatures of traditional watchmaking art.
“Côtes de Genève” patterns, symbols of timeless elegance.
Textures inspired by architecture at Loresum, or even meteorite fragments, which transform each watch into a unique piece.
Display ? Here again, micro-brands are constantly pushing the boundaries :
Inspiration? It's everywhere : architecture (with Loresum ), automobiles (like at Rebellion or Ugly ), space exploration (at SpaceOne ), contemporary art ( MW&CO collaborations), not to mention nature and bio-inspired design. And to top it all off, some brands go so far as to involve their community in the creative process, like Code41, where enthusiasts directly influence the design of the models.
Reliable… and sometimes spectacular movements
A beautiful case is all well and good. But what makes the heart of a watch beat is its movement. And in this area, micro-brands have nothing to envy the big names. Many use Swiss or Japanese calibers renowned for their precision and reliability : Sellita, Seiko, Soprod, Miyota... Do these names mean anything to you ? Normal, they are the big names in the sector ! Used by both historic brands and the most demanding independent watchmakers, these movements have proven, reliable values, which often incorporate ruby bearings that reduce friction, optimize longevity and guarantee formidable precision. Some micro-brands choose to push innovation even further , exploring new mechanical territories with watchmaking complications that are as technical as they are original.
✨ Some examples that stand out :
Orbital tourbillon at Behrens, where the mechanism literally gravitates around the dial.
Complete calendar and power reserve on the latest Mecexp , for a watch that is as practical as it is innovative.
Multi-segment pusher display on Atowak's Cosmofleet, which offers a futuristic and playful time reading.
We're at the crossroads of fine watchmaking, contemporary design, and technical prowess. Exceptional pieces... but without the hallmarks of a major brand.
Quality control worthy of the greatest brands
Where large groups often work on an assembly line, micro-brands choose a much more artisanal approach—and that's where the magic happens. Each watch is crafted with extreme attention to detail, almost like a unique piece.
🛠 Before arriving on your wrist, each piece goes through a series of rigorous checks :
Visual inspection with a magnifying glass to track down the slightest imperfection
Leak tests to ensure reliability at all times
Movement precision adjustments
Manual verification of each finish, including elements invisible to the naked eye
And that's not all. Some brands collaborate with independent watchmaking workshops or master watchmakers from the Swiss watchmaking world to maintain a level of excellence that rivals that of the greatest brands.
Some go even further, investing in high-end treatments : anti-scratch coatings, reinforced water resistance, or even exceptional hand-crafted finishes—complex chamfering, mirror polishing, internal circular graining, etc. Techniques inherited from traditional watchmaking know-how, adapted to a new generation of timepieces. At Nubeo or Zbioland, for example, each model is manually inspected down to the smallest detail before being shipped.
A community involved – and proud of it
What you wear on your wrist isn't just an object : it's the result of a dialogue. And in this spirit, micro-brands stand out for their rare proximity to their community—a connection that, far from being symbolic, becomes a true lever of quality.
More and more of them are placing their community at the heart of the creative process. Code41 is a pioneer: every step—from the choice of design to the materials—is decided with enthusiasts. This total transparency transforms each watch into a collective project.
CIGA Design, for its part, designs certain models through participatory campaigns, directly testing user expectations. Gearmagus relies on detailed feedback from its community to perfect its creations, ensuring that each model meets concrete and current needs. MandetBrote, meanwhile, adjusts its watches in real time based on its customers' suggestions and preferences, offering advanced customization for a truly unique product.
And when we combine this collective requirement with often limited-edition productions, we obtain pieces with high added value — exclusive, but accessible, and without compromise !
Conclusion: Authenticity above all
Micro-brands don't just follow major trends ; they challenge the conventions of traditional watchmaking. With high-end materials, reliable movements, and bold designs, they dare to take innovative approaches while respecting the codes of watchmaking. They prove that the true value of a watch lies not just in a logo, but in its history, its design, and its uniqueness.
If you're looking for an original watch, full of character, combining exceptional quality and uncompromising creativity, you now know where to look. And who knows, you might just discover a rare model that stands out and captures attention even before it becomes a classic.
“Microbrands represent one of the fastest-growing segments of the mechanical watch market, where small companies can produce quality products that compete for the attention of connoisseurs with the industry giants.” — Teddy Baldassarre, in his article “ 70 Best Microbrand Watches – A Complete Guide for 2025 ”
💬 And you, what style of micro-brand is right for you ? Share in the comments!
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